Bags 1.1-1.3 step 1

Online	Name
	#92078 B64 Diff Gasket and O-Rings
	#92079 B64 Diff Shims
	#92080 B64 Diff Cases, for front, center, rear
	#92082 B64 Gear Diff Outdrives

Bags 1.1-1.3 step 2

	#92077 B64 Gear Diff Rebuild, metal
	#92079 B64 Diff Shims

Bags 1.1-1.3 step 3

#92077 B64 Gear Diff Rebuild, metal

B64 manual shows #31448 2.5x8mm FHSC used.

	#31350 Screws, 2.5x10 mm FHCS
	#92078 B64 Diff Gasket and O-Rings

Bags 1.1-1.3 step 4

VTS = Variable Torque, multi-plate Slipper with 3 drive surfaces.
LCF = Low Coefficient Friction.

Online	Name
	#91176 VTS Slipper Housing
	#91198 LCF VTS Slipper Pads
	#92091 B64 FT Slipper Basket Hub
	#92092 B64 FT Slipper Shaft/Outdrive

LCF = Low Coefficient Friction.

Online	Name
	#9651 Spur Gear, 81T 48P
	#91197 LCF Slipper Pads
	#92090 B64 FT Slipper Hub

Bags 1.1-1.3 step 5

Online	Name
	#1596 FT Locking Adhesive
	#31500 Set Screws, 3x0.5x2.5 mm
	#92093 B64 FT Slipper Nut

Bags 3.1-3.3 step 1

Online	Name
	#1596 FT Locking Adhesive
	#25202 Screws, 3x10 mm FHCS
	#92044 B64 Motor Mount, aluminum
	#92046 B64 Center Bulkhead and Cover

Bags 4.1-4.2 step 1

Online	Name
	#31382 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x1.0 mm, blue aluminum
	#91048 Heavy-duty Ballstuds, 8 mm
	#92004 B64 Bellcranks and Rack

Bags 4.1-4.2 step 2

See previous picture for #25187 referenced in the note.

#31400 Bearings, 5x8 mm

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 1

	#91563 FT Bearings, 10x15x4 mm
	#92008 B64 Gearbox, front and rear
	#92071 B64 Input Shaft, 17T

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 2

	#89202 Screws, 3x12 mm BHCS
	#92014 Arm Mount Inserts
	#92018 B64 LRC Arm Mount B, aluminum

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 3

	#25215 Locknuts, M3
	#25188 Screws, 3x20 mm BHSS
	#91048 Heavy-duty Ballstuds, 8 mm
	#91533 Shock Bushings, short
	#92009 B64 Front Shock Tower, woven carbon fiber

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 4

#25211 Screws, 3x10 mm BHCS

1. Slide dogbone under rack and into the center gearbox outdrive.
2. Slide front gearbox onto other end of dogbone and fasten gearbox in place.

	#6588 Black Grease, 4cc
	#25202 Screws, 3x10 mm FHCS
	#25204 Screws, 3x16 mm FHCS
	#92065 B64 Center Dogbones, gear diff

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 5

	#31541 Screws, 3x0.5x6 mm FHCS
	#92038 B64 Top Plate and Body Posts

The #1596 threadlock fluid is not included.

	#1596 FT Locking Adhesive
	#25202 Screws, 3x10 mm FHCS

Bags 5.1-5.2 step 6

	#92024 B64 Hinge Pin Set
	#92025 B64 Front Arms

Bags 6.1-6.2 step 1

Online	Name
	#25215 Locknuts, M3
	#31382 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x1.0 mm, blue aluminum
	#31532 Screws, 3x0.5x8 mm BHCS
	#91048 Heavy-duty Ballstuds, 8 mm
	#92031 B64 Steering Blocks
	#92032 B64 Aluminum Steering Arms

Bags 6.1-6.2 step 2

The #1596 threadlock fluid is not included in the kit.

	#1596 FT Locking Adhesive
	#89202 Screws, 3x12 mm BHCS

Bags 6.1-6.2 step 3

	#91560 FT Bearings, 5x10x4 mm
	#92059 B64 Front Crush Tubes

Bags 6.1-6.2 step 4

	#31510 Screws, 2x0.4x4 mm BHCS
	#92024 B64 Hinge Pin Set

Bags 7.1, 7.2 step 1

Servo screw is #25211.

Online	Name
	#9180 Servo Horns, molded
	#25211 Screws, 3x10 mm BHCS
	#89009 Servo Support Ring & Washer
	#91451 Heavy-Duty Ballstuds, 4 mm

Bags 7.1, 7.2 step 2

	#31541 Screws, 3x0.5x6 mm FHCS
	#92043 B64 Front Chassis Brace Mount, aluminum

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 1

Online	Name
	#6588 Black Grease, 4cc
	#91563 FT Bearings, 10x15x4 mm
	#92008 B64 Gearbox, front and rear
	#92071 B64 Input Shaft, 17T

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 2

	#6588 Black Grease, 4cc
	#89202 Screws, 3x12 mm BHCS
	#92014 Arm Mount Inserts
	#92019 B64 LRC (Low Roll Center) Arm Mount C, aluminum

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 3

	#25215 Locknuts, M3
	#89204 Screws, 3x24 mm BHCS
	#91048 Heavy-duty Ballstuds, 8 mm
	#91720 B6 Shock Bushings, long
	#92012 B64 Rear Shock Tower, graphite

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 4

	#25211 Screws, 3x10 mm BHCS
	#89202 Screws, 3x12 mm BHCS
	#92038 B64 Top Plate and Body Posts
	#92050 B64 Wing Mount Set

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 5

	#25202 Screws, 3x10 mm FHCS
	#92065 B64 Center Dogbones, gear diff

Bags 8.1, 8.2 step 6

	#92024 B64 Hinge Pin Set
	#92048 B64 Rear Arms

Bags 9.1-9.2 step 1

Online	Name
	#25215
	#89218
	#91049
	#91698
	#92055

See the Tuning Tips section below for an explanation of this chart.

Bags 9.1-9.2 step 2

CVA = Constant Velocity Axle.

Online	Name
	#91438 CVA Rebuild Kit
	#92057 B64 Rear CVA Set, 65 mm
	#92062 B64 Rear Axles

Bags 9.1-9.2 step 3

Online	Name
	#31510 Screws, 2x0.4x4 mm BHCS
	#91609 Factory Team Clamping Wheel Hexes, 5.0mm
	#91611 Screws, 1.6x5 mm SHCS
	#91436 CVA (Constant Velocity Axle)/Wheel Hex Pins

Bags 10.1, 10.2 step 1

Online	Name
	#31305 Turnbuckle Eyelets
	#92054 B64 Anti-roll Bar Hardware

In the note, the collet is referring to the #92054 collar.

Online	Name
	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
	#92051 B64 Anti-roll Bar Set, front, soft
	#92053 B64 Anti-roll Bar Set, rear
	#92054 B64 Anti-roll Bar Hardware

Bags 10.1, 10.2 step 2

Bags 10.1, 10.2 step 3

	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
	#31511 Screws, 2x0.4x5 mm SHCS

Bags 10.1, 10.2 step 3

Bags 10.1, 10.2 step 4

	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
	#31511 Screws, 2x0.4x5 mm SHCS

Bag 11.1 step 1

Servo Link

	#91722 B6 Ballcups
	#92027 Turnbuckles, 3x42 mm

Bag 11.1 step 2

Front Camber Link, from supplementary sheet

	#91722 B6 Ballcups
	#91723 Turnbuckles, 3x48 mm

Bag 11.1 step 3

Steering Link, from supplementary sheet

	#91722 B6 Ballcups
	#91723 Turnbuckles, 3x48 mm

Bag 11.1 step 4

Rear Camber Link, from supplementary sheet

	#91722 B6 Ballcups
	#91723 Turnbuckles, 3x48 mm

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 1

Online	Name
	#1596 FT Locking Adhesive
	#31510 Screws, 2x0.4x4 mm BHCS
	#89278 Washers, 2.5 mm
	#91617 3x23 Shock Shaft V2, TiN
	#91619 3x27.5 mm Shock Shafts (V2), TiN
	#91634 12mm Shock Pistons, V2

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 2

	#31327 FT VCS3 Shock Bottom Caps
	#91480 12x23 mm V2 Shock Bodies
	#91481 12.27.5 V2 Shock Bodies
	#91491 12 mm V2 Shock Rebuild
	#91493 Factory Team Low Friction X-Rings
	#91495 FT 12 mm V2 X-Ring Rebuild Kit

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 2

#91721 B6 Shock Eyelets

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 3

Shock Bleeding Steps
1. Before assembly, install each #91492 bleed screw (see below) 1-2 turns into the shock cap, then remove the screw. This will make it easier when you are bleeding your shocks.
2. Pull shock shaft down.
3. Fill shock body 3/4 full with silicone shock fluid.
4. Slowly move the shock shaft up and down to remove air from under the piston.
5. Wait for bubbles to come to surface.
6. Fill shock body to top with silicone shock fluid.
7. Place a drop of oil in the cap and on cap threads.
8. Install cap (without bleeding screw) and tighten completely.
9. Slowly compress shaft all the way to bleed excess silicone shock fluid out the hole in the cap. Use a rag around shock to catch excess fluid.
10. Install the #91492 M2x4mm button head screw (see below) until snug while shaft is fully compressed.

	#5422 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 30wt (350 cSt)
	#5423 FT Silicone Shock Fluid, 40wt (500 cSt)
	#91449 12 mm V2 Composite Shock Caps
	#91492 12 mm V2 Bleeder Gaskets

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 4

	#91304 FT 12 mm Threaded Collars
	#91491 12 mm V2 Shock Rebuild

Bags 12.1-12.3 step 5

	#25612 Locknuts, M3 with flange
	#89203 Screws, 3x16 mm BHCS
	#91447 Shock Bushing Balls

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 1

Online	Name
	#25225 Set Screws, 3x3 mm
	#31532 Screws, 3x0.5x8 mm BHCS
	#92045 B64 Motor Mount Slide, aluminum

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 2

	#25211 Screws, 3x10 mm BHCS
	#31382 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x1.0 mm, blue aluminum

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 3

#6727 Servo Tape

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 4

Online	Name
	#1597 Factory Team Tire Adhesive, medium viscosity

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 5

#91738 Nuts, M4 Serrated Nuts

Bags 13.1-13.3 step 6

See Tips for painting the body in the Tuning Tips below

	#25202 Screws, 3x10 mm FHCS
	#91741 B6 Wing
	#92050 B64 Wing Mount Set

Your B64 comes with a clear polycarbonate body. You will need to prep the body before you can paint it.

Wash the inside thoroughly with warm water and liquid detergent (do not use any detergents with scents or added hand lotion ingredients).

Dry the body using a clean, soft, lint-free cloth.

Use the supplied window masks to cover the windows on the INSIDE of the body (RC cars get painted on the inside).

Apply high quality masking tape to the inside of the body to create a design.

Spray the paint (using either rattle can or airbrush) on the inside of the body (preferably dark colors first, lighter colors last). NOTE: Use ONLY paint that is recommended for use with polycarbonate plastics. If you do not, you can destroy the plastic body!

After the paint has completely dried, cut the body along the trim lines. Drill or use a body reamer to make the holes for the antenna and body mounts.

Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can't stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps.

Once you can get around the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing it before making another change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the setup sheet. If your adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back to the previous setup and try another change.

When you are satisfied with your vehicle's performance, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future track days or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.

Proper motor gearing will result in maximum performance and run time while reducing the chance of overheating and premature motor failure. The gear ratio chart lists the recommended starting gear ratios for the most widely used motor types. Gear ratios will vary depending upon motor brand, wind, and electronic speed control. Consult your motor and electronic speed control manufacturers for more information.

Start with this gearing, then change pinions to tune for acceleration or top speed.

Team Associated is not responsible for motor damage due to improper gearing.

B64 Gear Ratio Chart

Internal Gear Ratio: 2.47:1.
Formula: Trans. Ratio x Gear Ratio = Final Drive Ratio.

Example from bottom row:
2.47 x (81 ÷ 20)
2.47 x 4.05 = 10.00

Pinion basics:
Fewer teeth: faster acceleration, more run time.
More teeth: more top speed, less run time.

You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the pinion gear without making the pinion gear move. If the spur gear mesh is tight, then loosen the #31532 screws and move the motor away, then try again.

A gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear teeth.

In addition, continued use of gears without ridding them of dirt and grit will soon chop them up. Check after each run and carefully remove any offending particles.

With the slipper you can set the balance of power between the front and rear tires.

Recommendations:
When the track is loose or has less grip, loosening the slipper clutch will make the car easier to drive by absorbing some of the initial power and making it feel like there is more traction.

When the track has a lot of traction, loosening the slipper can help keep the car from performing wheelies. It will also help make the power more manageable and allow you to drive the car harder when grip is higher.

Setting the slipper:
The best way to set your slipper clutch is to put the car on the table or road, then hold the rear tires firmly in place, and have someone pull full throttle briefly and see if the front wheels come up off the ground. If the slipper clutch is too loose, the wheels won't lift off the ground and that indicates that you need to tighten the clutch nut.

If the slipper is too tight, the wheels will come off the ground immediately. (Tip: keep face out of range!) Loosen the slipper clutch nut.

The initial setting for the slipper is to have the clutch slip slightly initially, then lift the front wheels about 2-3 inches (50-75mm) up off the table.

Caster describes the angle of the caster block as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster leans rearward at the top. The B64 has three caster blocks to adjust caster angle: 7°, 10°, and 13°.

Less caster means less steering entering and exiting corners.

More caster means the opposite -- there is more steering entering and exiting corners.

	#92028 B64 Aluminum Caster Blocks, 7 deg. (in kit, B64)
	#92029 B64 Aluminum Caster Blocks, 10 deg. (in kit, B64D)
	#92030 B64 Aluminum Caster Blocks, 13 deg.

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel ride when looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. 0° front camber results in better straight-line acceleration. More caster results in more high-speed traction through corners.

A good starting camber setting is -1°. This is adjusted by turning the front camber turnbuckle, which is attached to the ballstud on top of the caster block. (Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.)

The optional #1719 FT Camber Tool can be used to set camber.

For more information, see the Front Camber Links tip below.

#1719 FT Camber + Track Width Tool

Shortening the camber link will give the front end less roll and quicken steering response.

Lengthening the camber link will give the front more roll and slower steering response. Longer camber links are typically used on high-grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on medium-grip loose tracks.

The kit starting setting recommended is 1mm shim under the ball stud to Tower 2 hole.

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel leans when looked at from the back. As the tire leans inward (less, or negative, camber), it gains more high traction through corners. As the tire leans outward, it removes straight-line acceleration. 0° means more straight-line acceleration. We change camber angle by adjust the camber turnbuckle.

A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.

The optional #1719 camber tool can be used to set camber.

For more information, see the Rear Camber Links tip below.

#1719 FT Camber + Track Width Tool

Shortening the camber link will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend to accelerate or "square up" better. We change camber angle by adjust the camber turnbuckle.

Lengthening the camber link will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip. Longer camber links are typically used on high-grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better on medium-grip loose tracks.

The kit setting of rear hub link, Down D to Tower 4, is a good compromise of cornering grip and acceleration.

Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are turned to steer the car. For minimal tire slip, it is standard for the inside wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. More Ackermann means the inside wheel turns more -- the Ackermann angle is greater. When the tires are pointing straight ahead, there is no Ackermann.

The B64D allows Ackermann adjustments by changing the washer thickness used behind the steering rack ballstuds (see above). The kit setup uses no washers and is most common for racing conditions. If corner entry steering is too aggressive, try increasing the Ackermann by removing shims from behind the steering rack ballstuds. Increasing the Ackermann will increase the angle difference of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on corner entry.

You can also change Ackermann at the steering block. Replace the stock #92032 Steering Arms (above) with the #92033 Steering Block Arms +2 for more Ackermann.

	#31381 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x0.5 mm, blue aluminum
	#31382 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x1.0 mm, blue aluminum
	#31383 Ballstud Washers, 5.5x2.0 mm, blue aluminum
	#92032 B64 Aluminum Steering Arms
	#92033 B64 FT Steering Block Arms, +2

Kickup is the angle of the front arms between the front arm mounts A and B when looked at from the side. We use front arm mount inserts in mounts A and B to set kickup. Kickup (anti-dive) occurs when arm mount A sets the arm higher than the rear (than the setting in Arm Mount B). Note that the caster blocks are attached to the front arms, so the inserts will change caster as well.

The 1° and .5° settings will depend on the arm mount insert you use; there are 1° and .5° versions of each. The arm mounts have a technical description for each one:

(0, 0) = dot in center of insert
(0, 0.35) = .5°, dot on side
(0, 0.7) = 1°, dot on side
(0.35, 0.35) = .5°, dot in corner
(0.7, 0.7) = 1°, dot in corner

The standard kickup for the B64D is shown above. It assumes that the LRC (Low Roll Center) Arm Mounts A and B are being used. The lower setting in Arm Mount A than in Arm Mount B indicates pro-dive -- the front of the arm mount is lower than the rear of the arm. If the front setting is higher than the rear, it would be anti-dive.

The B64D also has an HRC (High Roll Center) set of arm mounts, in which the grouping of the holes is moved higher, lifting the ends of the mounts higher off the ground. In addition, the brass version of arm mount B adds more weight to the front of the car.

	#92014 Arm Mount Inserts
	#92015 B64 HRC Arm Mount A, aluminum
	#92016 B64 LRC Arm Mount A, aluminum
	#92017 B64 HRC Arm Mount B, aluminum
	#92018 B64 LRC Arm Mount B, aluminum
	#92023 B64 FT LRC Arm Mount B, brass

Use the long chassis brace (shown above) for high-grip tracks like carpet and blue groove. This will give less flex, and therefore will be more responsive.

Use the short brace for looser tracks. This will give more flex and provide more grip and stability.

#92039 B64 Chassis Braces

Choice of diff fluid viscosity can affect the car in a variety of ways.

Basics:
Thicker fluid = less diff action
Thinner Fluid = more diff action

Effects, front:
Thinner fluid in front = the car will have more steering and is better for loose tracks.
Thicker fluid in the front = the car will have stability in corners on higher grip tracks. Makes the car smoother through the corners.

Effects, center:
Thinner fluid in the center = sends more power to the front wheels under acceleration and more braking power to the front wheels under braking. This allows the rear wheels to spin more quickly than the front wheels under braking.
Thicker fluid in the center = less power is sent to the front wheels and more is send to the rear. This results in more drive out of corners.

Effects, rear:
Thinner fluid in the rear = more rear grip for loose tracks
Thicker fluid in the rear = more stability on higher grip tracks.

Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis. The standard front and rear ride height setting for the B64D is 20mm.

Check the front ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench and dropping it. After the suspension "settles" into place, measure ride height (using the optional Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or lower the shock collars as necessary.

The rear ride height setting you should use most often is 20mm. Check the rear ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench and drop it. After the suspension "settles" into place, measure ride height. Raise or lower the shock collars as necessary.

#1449 FT Off Road Ride Height Gauge

The wheelbase spacing is the variable distance between the front and rear arms (specifically, the distance between the centerlines of the front and rear axles). You have two options for spacing: 1mm Shim Forward, and 1mm Shim Back. This means to add a 1mm shim to the arm's hinge pin at front or back of the arm.

Standard starting positions (from the standard setup sheet) are Shim Back for front, and Shim Forward for rear. This pushes the arms farther from each other, lengthening the wheelbase.

For improved handling in bumps or rhythm sections, try a longer wheelbase.

A shorter wheelbase is typically used on low-grip tracks or where there are lots of tight corners.

#92025 B64 Front Arms

The chart shows where to use the anti-roll bar packages (right) and which sizes the front and rear packages contain (left).

The anti-roll bars (also called the "swaybar") allow you to add roll resistance to the front and/or rear end with minimal effect on handling over bumps and jumps. It is an especially helpful tuning item on high-grip tracks.

On a high-traction surface, a vehicle not using anti-roll bars will tend to have a lot of chassis roll, which results in the vehicle being less responsive.

Adding anti-roll bars (or using thicker ones) will help minimize the chassis roll, making the vehicle more responsive in cornering, and at the same time making it more stable.

We don't offer the 1.0 to 1.3mm sizes for the rear because their effects are too subtle to make a difference.

	#92051 B64 Anti-roll Bar Set, front, soft
	#92052 B64 Anti-roll Bar Set, front, firm
	#92053 B64 Anti-roll Bar Set, rear
	#92054 B64 Anti-roll Bar Hardware

Axle height is used to keep roll centers similar when large ride height changes are made. As a rule of thumb, high axle heights are used for lower ride heights (less than 20mm) and low axle heights are used for higher ride heights (more than 22mm). The idea is to keep the arms close to level at ride height.

Axle height is adjusted by changing the Caster Hat Bushing thicknesses at the top and bottom of the caster blocks. The bushings come in four thicknesses. Four options are available: 0, 1, 2, and 3. A setting of 0 means the thickest bushing is at bottom and thinnest bushing is at top. This puts the axle in the lowest possible setting for the car. Standard setting is +1 at top and +2 at bottom. This is the +1 position. The easiest way to tell which setting you have is to look at the top bushing. The bushing size you have on top is the setting you have.

This chart gives the setting number and their orientation of hat bushings in the caster block, from low axle height at top to highest at bottom:

For more information, see the Rear Hub Links tip below.

#91676 B6 Caster Hat Bushings

The chart shows the relationship between the axle height and camber link position. If you want to preserve the relationship already established, then when you decide on an axle height change, make the insert and ballstud position/rear hub link insert changes noted for that column. This will keep the balance in the relationship between the hub height and camber link.

The hinge pin goes into the hub insert's hole, so the insert adjusts the axle height by moving the whole rear hub in relation to the hinge pin.

Example: if you are currently at axle height 0 and move it higher to +2 (middle row), swap out the 0/3 insert for the 1/2 hub insert (top row), tab down, and rotate the link insert 180 degrees (bottom row), but keep the ballstud in the same hole.

Rear hub insert numbers:

• 0 to +3 is in order from lowest axle height to highest. For more information, see the Axle Height tip above.
• 0/3 insert sets the lowest and highest heights.
• 1/2 insert sets the middle-level heights.
• 0 is the lowest you can make the rear hub sit in the arm. This gives you the side traction and stability for loose tracks.
• +3 is the highest you can make the rear hub sit in the arm. This gives you a faster rotation through the corner and is best suited for high-grip carpet tracks.

This version reorders the chart from axle height low to high from left to right:

For recommended settings for the aluminum rear hubs, see Rear Aluminum Hubs tip below.

Recommended starting points, DIRT:

Recommended starting points, CARPET:

	#92098 B64 FT Blue Aluminum Rear Hubs
	#92099 B64 FT Black Aluminum Rear Hubs